Carp Habitat

Carp are very adaptable and can be found in rivers, lakes, ponds and reservoirs all across the UK and in many other countries. Carp thrive in warmer waters and prefer slow moving or still water, but that is not to say that they will not tolerate fast flowing rivers, as long as there is an abundant food supply and a few places to hide from a strong current, carp manage very well indeed.

Being predominantly bottom feeders, carp root around in the mud, silt and weed especially in warmer shallows, looking for the next meal, bloodworm beds are a favourite location for carp, being one of the carp's staple food items, along with snails, crayfish, insect larva and almost any other aquatic insect or creature or invertabrae. Carp also eat small amounts of weed and plant life.

Carp tend to group up in smallish shoals and being a secretive fish by nature, it can normally be found under or near cover, which could be in the form of overhanging trees, lily beds, depth changes and channels in the lake or river bed, under weed rafts, or close to an inaccessible bank. If the carp has found an area of cover that is close to a good food source then the carp has found its home. Even though the carp will move out of this area for long periods in search of food, it will always return here, unless it has a reason not to, for example, noisy carp fishermen.

Carp fishermen tend to fish these areas of cover, knowing that they are carp holding areas and armed with the knowledge of the particular feature, they can use this knowledge to outwit the carp and produce some fantastic results including multiple captures. The carp producing feature will also need "resting" to allow the carp's confidence and the feeling of "safety" to return, otherwise the feature will end up devoid of carp. 

The carp will evacuate a good holding spot if they are placed under too much pressure and they may not return for months, or until the pressure has diminished enough for the carp to feel comfortable with the area again. Never the less, a good holding feature will always attract carp and if the carp angler is aware of the potential of a good carp holding feature and applied some thought to his fishing strategy of this holding area, a good carp holding feature will go on producing carp time and time again. 

Modern carp fishing in the UK, now means that many carp fishermen are taking "barrow" loads of equipment and carp fishing tackle with them on their carp fishing adventures, and it is often the transportation and the setting up of this tackle and barrow loads of equipment in the "chosen" swim, that is the single biggest reason for mass evacuation of the carp away from the very feature the carp fisherman chose that particular swim for!! You would be amazed at the carp's ability to feel sound vibrations transmitted from the bank, especially so in still water.

The carp will try to come back to this feature after a period of time, especially after dark, BUT, if they are greeted by tight fishing lines, strange lights reflecting and bouncing off of the normally dark waters surface and what sounds like a barbeque going on up the bank, be sure they will leave with haste and possibly not return again for a number of days.

At all times the thinking carp fisherman will be aware of his actions and will do his best to keep the chosen carp swim and its features as normal for the carp as possible, and keep all noise levels and bankside vibrations and shadows to a minimum. Not only will the carp then behave normally, it is then that a thinking carp angler has his biggest advantage over the carp, and probably the best opportunity to make his carp fishing trip a successful one.

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Basic Carp Fishing Pointers

Frustrating as it is, carp fishing is awesome. Carp are really good at sucking in and blowing out suspicious baits. It’s such an excitement to see the whole action in a fraction of a second as you hang on for dear life while the reel is trembling with a loud noise. Carp happily devour on the surface as long as you keep the pellets, biscuits, chic peas, bread, and re-hydrated corn coming in, and these are inexpensive baits as well. Just attach them to the hooks, most preferably the bread. Have the biscuits softened by dipping it in the water for about 2 minutes, then, place them in a sealed sandwich bag for about an hour. Since different brands have different textures, just experiment to know which is firm enough to cast. Another way to hook baits is super gluing the pellet into the shank.

Once they get into feeding, let them feel comfortable around the bait. This gives more opportunity for the fisherman since they begin to not feel picky. This tactic can be useful for zig rigs.

As soon as they’re feeding, cast the bait but make sure not to drop the bait directly onto the feeding carp. Cast away from the feeding area then slowly draw it in position. While the bait is till hanging, keep the food coming in so as to keep the carp from going away.

How to Set-Up?

• Use a hair rig to increase your chance of catching. As carp taste food first, if they don’t like the taste, they won’t come near it.

• You may also use a Spider Line, 50 lbs test, then use a leader material that fits the situation.

• Thread the bait on the baiting needle and hook the hair loop. You may also use foam dipped in a flavor as this enhances the attractiveness of the bait.

• Also make a baiting needle by just straightening a long shank hook. Slide the bait on the shank, then slide the bait from the needle onto the hair.

• Using a float is also an advantage because it adds weight for further distancing and the location is easily identified.

• Don’t forget the controller float rig. A leader can be used which is attached to the swivel to its mainline of at least 3 feet length with a 10lbs Drennan double strength. A low diameter mono will do just as long as it floats well enough for visibility.

As experts say, it is not the bait that catches the carp but the method in which the bait is introduced. Pre-bait everyday, in one spot for a few days. This makes the carp think that there is a regular source of food for them and by “word of mouth” there’ll soon be a school of fish around. Just be patient and it will all work.

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Rigging for Carp

Carp fishing can be an exciting angling adventure. Few other opportunities offer anglers a chance to land fish over 10 pounds almost every day! Best of all, these fish can be caught in almost all major waters in the state. To get ready to fish for carp, you’ll need a few items.

Tackle:
Both spinning and spin-cast rods spooled with 8- to 10-pound-test line work well for all but our largest carp. Many anglers prefer spinning reels with rear drag controls for easier adjustment when fighting a large carp. Use hooks in sizes 4 to 8, with shanks long enough to hold the bait of your choice. The size of the sinker that you choose depends on your desired casting distance and any current in the water that you are fishing. For finicky carp, you may want to use smaller hooks and lighter line.

Basic Rigs:
A three-way rig with swivel, sinker and single hook is a great way to start fishing for carp. Tie the piece of line that the sinker will be attached to with lighter line, so that if you snag the bottom, you don’t lose your whole rig. This rig fishes well in rivers and streams. Another good carp rig works very well in lakes. Even simpler in construction, it consists of a sinker running freely on the line, a single swivel to stop the weight, and a hook and leader attached to the swivel. The leader length should be around 12 to 16 inches. When fishing this rig, set your rod to free spool so that the carp can take the bait without any resistance.

Bait:
Bread balls, canned sweet corn, nightcrawlers and crayfish are all popular carp baits. There are many bread ball recipes, some for fresh bread balls and some for more durable baits that are boiled. Add a flavor like vanilla or strawberry to your baits to make them more attractive. In addition, canned sweet corn and bread are popular baits for chumming. Carp are great fighters, and anglers can readily catch really big ones! Be sure to get in on this action!

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Carp Float Fishing

Float fishing is probably one of the easiest way for new steelhead fishermen to learn. It is similar to bobber fishing for trout, except you use a unbreakable float instead of a plastic red and white bobber. Floats come in many shapes and sizes. The size of your float should be just big enough to float your bait/lure with out sinking so fish don't detect the float. In clear water use a clear float or a natural cork float. Float fishing is a very effective method in calm pools, and boulder strewn rivers. Without float fishing in your arsenal you may be missing some very good opportunities to catch more fish.


Presentation for Dead Drifting a jig


Floats come in many shapes and sizes. The size of your float should be just big enough to float your bait/lure with out sinking so fish don't detect the float. A float should ride the surface naturally occasionally stuttering as the bait/lure hits a rock. You can cast a float farther upstream than a drift fishing approach since the float will keep the line from going around rocks. As a float comes down stream reel up the slack, and as it goes down stream free spool with just enough tension not to disturb the float but enough to set the hook immediately. Keep your line off the surface of the water so it doesn't drag the float. It is extremely important not to drag the float which will cause the bait to rise off the bottom out of the strike zone. Always use sticky sharp hooks. Let me repeat that always use sticky sharp hooks.


Tail out Skimming Presentation


If you have a tail out you would like to cover with your float you can increase your leader length so it is longer than it is deep and hold back pressure against the float so it pulls the jig off the bottom and works it way back to shore.
The STRIKE


The float will just go down... SET THE HOOK!!! Your line should be tight and rod should be ready to strike.



Floats - fixed


Most float fishermen use a fixed float with about 4-9 feet of line to the bait/lure. The float should be placed on the main line with the swivel between the float and the bait. The distance below the float to the bait should be adjusted so the bait is just above the bottom. Fixed floats are difficult to cast with a bait casting reel. It is far easier to use a spinning rod to cast the float and jig. Above are two different types of floats. The foam ones on the right are commonly called dinks and the line is inserted through a tube on the top, then wrapped around the foam and reinserted into a tube on the bottom. The leader distance can be adjusted very quickly to meet the fishing situation with this style of float. It also supports a heavier weight setup. The Balsa floats on the right can be rigged as solid or sliding depending on your fishing style. To make them fixed just thread two surgical pieces on the line and pull over the ends of the float. The balsa stemmed float can also be fished with one piece of tubing and a piece of lead inserted in tubing make casting easier.


Removable Fixed Float setup


Another easy way to use the a fixed float on a sliding clear bobber is to place tiny split shot above and below the bobber. Be careful not to crimp the split shot to hard so your line doesn't become damaged.


Floats - sliding


With a sliding float the line goes thought the float and stops sliding by hitting a stopper on the main line. With this style of rigging it is easier to cast your lure with a bait casting reel. Generally a sliding float is fished with a casting reel, but can be also used on a spinning setup. Float stops can be place above and below the float. The top one is to set the depth and the bottom one is in case you break your main line so you can get the float back.


Adjusting the float


The distance below the float to the bait should be adjusted so the bait is just above the bottom. If the float hangs up going down the hole, shorten the leader by six inches at a time until it doesn't hang up. If it never touches bottom lengthen the leader another six inches until the bait just touches bottom, then shorten by six inches so its just off the bottom. Fish have good upwards vision and will rise to take the jig/bait when suspended during warm water temperature months.



Line


If you are a dedicated float fishermen you should use a main line that will float on the surface so you can mend the line. Braided lines work well for this purpose or you can use dry fly line dressing to help keep the line from sinking. A small film container with a small cloth soaked in Mucillin will allow you to coat your line on the retrieve quickly at the start of the day.


Swivels


Barrel Swivels are used to attach a lighter leader to a heavier main line. This allows you to quickly adjust your rig to water conditions & minimize loss to snags. To avoid float loss, make sure float is attached to the main line above the swivel. A dropper fly can be added on a short leader for extra attraction. (check regulations before adding second lure)


Leader


You should always use a leader of a lighter strength below your float so you don't lose your float when your lure breaks off. Leader length should be at least 18 inches to the swivel. During the summer you can go as light as 4# test with the right setup and successfully land steelhead. During the winter 20# test leaders can be used in colored water when chasing Trophy class steelhead.


Bait/Jigs


All kinds of setups can be placed below the float. A jig can be used with bait and without. You can use a drift fishing rigging below a float using back pressure to fish tail outs or just to cover water that tends to be to snaggy to drift fish. Soft plastics are also a favorite used on jigs and with out. Soft plastics can be used in worm, egg cluster and single egg presentations. All of these methods can be combined in one way or another to meet almost any situation. Straight bait such as eggs, sand shrimp or night crawlers can be extremely effective when presented in the correct manner. In extremely clear water you may even give single eggs a try.

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Carp Night Fishing

There is no doubt that fishing when the fish are most willing to feed gives you a mighty edge. For carp, bream and barbel this can be almost obligatory, but how do you get started? Is night fishing so very much more difficult than fishing during the day?

Night fishing for me developed out of fishing early mornings for tench. It was quite early in my angling career that I realised that I could catch more by fishing for a few hours when the fish were willing to feed than by fishing for much longer when they weren't. Getting up at the crack of dawn wasn't much fun, but the tench fishing certainly was! What was even more pleasing was the tales of almost universal woe expressed by those who only fished during more sociable hours.

Tench fishing progressed into carp fishing, and with it came habitual weekends spent at the lake. Short morning sessions turned into one or two night stints. In retrospect, this wasn't the most efficient way of fishing, but when the lake was so far away (and I was dependent upon public transport) there was little choice.

So, I go night fishing for two reasons. Firstly, because for some species, in some circumstances, it offers the best chance of success. Secondly, because if I am forced to stay at the water for more than a few hours I might as well fish all night in the hope of a bonus fish or two. Whether you think the second reason is sporting is up to you. Certainly, if the water is full of bootlace eels I will soon wind in and get my head down!

Staying awake all night is incredibly difficult, and rarely desirable. It is very rare for fish to feed throughout the night, just as they do not feed equally through the day. The hours either side of dawn and dusk are generally the best, although this is not a hard and fast rule. If you want to fish effectively then it is normally best to concentrate on these periods. There are no hard or fast rules though, as angling pressure and the weather can cause fish to feed at other times. With modern bite alarms it is possible to fish and sleep at the same time. Again this comes down to ethics, but most people are now happy with the idea. It is certainly more desirable to be asleep next to your rods than wandering off and letting them fish for themselves. This does lead me on to my first sermon though. Above all, night fishing is about getting away from the modern world, so please keep it that way, tilly lamps, loud bite alarms and 'raves' on the bank are NOT what night fishing is about!


There are no great secrets to successful and enjoyable night fishing. Mostly it comes down to familiarity. The more you do, the easier it will become. For the budding night angler I would suggest gradually easing yourself into this form of fishing. With the right equipment it isn't difficult, but if you are not used to being outside then it can be quite unnerving. The easiest way to begin is to extend sessions an hour or two into darkness. In this way you will have a good idea of the layout of the swim and will not have to set up in the dark. Choose a swim that you know well, and one that does not present any obvious dangers, such as steep banks and thick weed. Choose a warm summers evening and give it a go. Plan to arrive a few hours before dark and pack up a little after dark. The only equipment you will need are a decent torch and some warm clothes. Keeping warm is absolutely essential and sitting out being macho in a t-shirt all night will NOT catch you any more fish!

Head torches are an absolute boon for night fishing. Their only disadvantage is that they attract insects around your head, so only use them when you need to. Tilly lamps and area lights are a no-no. If you sit in the dark you will be amazed at how your senses quickly sharpen up and you will find that you do not need any light for many operations. Something you will have to do at night is change the batteries in your torch. Always carry spares and practice changing the batteries with your eyes shut! This may sound daft, but you don't want to be stuck without some form of light just in case of emergencies.

The other secret, if you want to call it a secret, to night fishing is being organised. I always lay out my kit in a certain way. My torch is kept by the front leg of my chair or bed, tackle box and rig bin is under my chair, landing net is next to the rods and unhooking gear is behind me. Other bits I may need, such as scales and camera, are always in the same pockets of my rucksack, so that I know where to find them instantly. Knowing where everything is also makes it much less likely that you will leave stuff too. Get into a routine (most people do anyway without realising it) and you will be well equipped to fish the nights through.

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Carp Feeder Fishing

In fishing for carp, there are two methods that you can use: maggot or groundbait. It seems that nowadays, ground bait is considered the most popular with anglers as it encourages the carp to feed and right to their hook interested by the cloud and the scent given off.

There are mainly two kinds of feeders; for deep water (1½ -2 metres), the open end feeders are the best, as they don't release from the tube until they are near the bottom. For shallower water, the cage feeder is considered more practical, releasing as soon as it comes in contact with the water, often with fishmeal and crushed hemp (50/50 ratio) as the bait - a favourite with carp.

With all kinds of feeder fishing though, it is important to mix the groundbait with only the slightest amount of water, this is especially important when using crushed hemp, if it is too wet, the pond water will have little impact when the groundbait comes into contact with it, thus not encouraging an active release from the feeder. It is also a good idea to add a few pinkies into the groundbait, to entice the carp even more.

The season, determines whether to use active or inactive groundbait. If the weather is colder, the carp will be swimming near or at the bottom of the bed, so an inactive groundbait such as fishmeal and brown crumb (50/50 ratio) will be suitable. As the warmer weather draws, carp will swim at all levels, resulting in the active groundbait being a better choice, possibly Hi-Pro Carp mixed with brown crumb or crushed hemp (75/25 ratio).

By baiting say, two fluoro maggots, with a barbless hook, one threaded through the blunt end, the other hooked through the pointed end of the bait, you will reduce hooklength spin which in turn, reduces the concealment of the hook's point.

As carp feed and feel safer around more featured areas of the pond, like near reeds and over-hangs, it is a good idea to try to cast around there. You may have to cast several times before any sign of results and again, depending on the season, will decide on whether to keep to the same region of the pond by clipping the line. As the fish are much slower in winter, willing to move less, it may be advised not to clip in colder waters.

Generally, if you are having trouble catching, it is advised not to change groundbait, once you use one mixture, don't change that choice throughout that day, unless you are prepared to change your peg.

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Asian Carp

There are four types of Asian carp that are established in the United States. They are the common carp, grass carp, bighead carp and silver carp. Bighead and silver carp have escaped from aquaculture facilities and they are spreading fast. These fish are large filter-feeders that pose a significant risk to the Great Lakes. They consume an enormous amount of food, grow to sizes up to 100 pounds and are seen as a possible threat to the current fishery of the Great Lakes.
These 2 types of Asian carp have escaped into the Illinois river and they are breeding at an incredible rate of production while moving closer to Lake Michigan. It is possible that they can become a dominant species in the Great Lakes which would change the entire ecosystem of the lakes. Here are some links to more information about Asian carp.

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Carp

Some people argue that carp are the best fighting freshwater fish pound for
pound. While others may disagree, you can't argue the fact that carp are very
strong and provide some excellent fights. They will not jump like a bass or
salmon, however, they do make strong runs like a northern pike.

Carp fishing is extremely popular in Europe, however, it hasn't caught on completely in the United
States. It is gaining more popularity, but it still has a long way to go to match the popularity of Europe.
There are many fishermen that do enjoy fishing for carp, but the carp get a bad rap from bass fishermen
because they eat bass eggs. Carp can overpopulate a pond or small lake in a hurry because most
people don't keep carp and once they grow to 10 or inches, they don't have very many predators.

Carp don't feed in the same ways that most gamefish feed. They feed off of the bottom and they will eat
a variety of different baits from corn to worms. They are called garbage fish by most serious anglers.
Carp can tolerate very shallow and murky water that most other fish couldn't. This also helps lead to
overpopulating ponds and small lakes.

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