Think about adding a GPS receiver to your ice fishing arsenal, if you venture out just after early-ice season for bluegills. To make the most of this process, all you need to get started is a hand auger, ice chisel, small portable shelter, and a sonar GPS combo ice machine. Begin by loading the lake map on your GPS and look for the deepest water off the main-lake structure in the area. Keep in mind that panfish congregate in deep basins during early ice. You can also use your GPS to avoid current areas that could make early ice unsafe. Slowly, work your way out to the spot, checking the ice as you go. Once you've located your spot, auger a hole and set the sonar, set the shelter and bring out your ultralight rods and small jigs to catch early season bluegill.
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Showing posts with label Fishing Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fishing Tips. Show all posts
Monday, November 9, 2009
Early Ice Bluegill
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Monday, November 09, 2009
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Light Biting Crappies
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Monday, November 09, 2009
When ice fishing for Crappies, a problem most ice fisherman have is feeling them hit. Here are some tips. If you jig, place the tip of your finger on the end of the rod blank. This increases sensitivity. If you still fish, watch your rod tip for the slightest movement. If you see or feel anything unusual, set the hook.
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Ice Fishing For Perch
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Fishing Tips
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Monday, November 09, 2009
When going out for a day of icefishing for perch start by drilling a hole through the ice and using the side view setting on your electronic fish finder. Turn the transducer slowly in the water and look for weeds, keep repeating this process until you find a weed bed. Then drill all the holes you need along the outside edge of them and enjoy your catch.
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Monday, October 26, 2009
Winter Time Bass Fishing
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Fishing Tips
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Monday, October 26, 2009
Bass fishing in winter months can be very tough. Like humans and all other animals bass do not like to move much in the winter and like to store up on food to avoid having to hunt as often. The key to catching bass in the winter is to use large baits and fish them very slow. Brush hogs tend to work well in the winter months when bass fishing. A large jig or chatterbair with a pork trailer will also do the trick. If a bass is going to have to move around a lot in the cold water the treat better be worth it. Think big! This time of the year is a perfect time to bust out those 12inch worms you bought at walmart for 10 cents.
When fishing for bass in the winter time use large baits like mentioned above, but also remember to fish very slow. Remember winter, bigger and slower - summer, smaller and faster. Also try and keep your baits warm, for example place them in your back pocket or in your coat. A warmer bait will work better in the cold waters.
Always remember to bundle up when bass fishing in the winter you never know when unexpected weather could come your way!
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When fishing for bass in the winter time use large baits like mentioned above, but also remember to fish very slow. Remember winter, bigger and slower - summer, smaller and faster. Also try and keep your baits warm, for example place them in your back pocket or in your coat. A warmer bait will work better in the cold waters.
Always remember to bundle up when bass fishing in the winter you never know when unexpected weather could come your way!
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Make Your Own Night Crawler Farm
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Fishing Tips
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Monday, October 26, 2009
Nightcrawlers and other worm types such as a common night crawler, European night crawler, African night crawler, grunt worms, garden worms, red wigglers, and leaf worms are as close as you can get to a universal live bait for all species of freshwater fish as you can get. They will catch any fish from common bluegill to the elusive sturgeon. Nightcrawlers have amazing fish appeal but there are some important reasons they are so popular. They are a very easy bait to find and a very easy bait to catch or raise if you are a interested in saving a few bucks,or just want fresh bait readily available. After a good rain you can catch enough nightcrawlers for multiple fishing trips. You can keep nightcrawlers alive for weeks at a time with some simple preparation. When you catch or buy your nightcrawlers make sure you put them in a large container , like a 5 gallon bucket. Fill the bucket at least 1/2 full with rich moist soil. then keep them in a cool spot.
All types of nightcrawlers are very easy to raise. You can build yourself a worm box and store it in your basement,backyard or in your garage. You can make your worm box out of just about any material just make sure you make it big enough. A size of of about 2ft x 3 ft x 2ft deep is excellent. Fill the your worm box with fertile loamy soil. Wait for a good rainy night then go out and catch as many night crawlers as you can find and put them in your new worm box. Once you have enough night crawlers they will reproduce and you will have a constant supply of fresh night crawler bait.
Worms are "Hermaphrodites" which means they have both male and female sex organs. These sex organs are found in the dark spot that looks like a Normal 0 collar near the head. One nightcrawler cannot produce by itself. As the saying says. "It takes two to tangle." When two nightcrawlers or other worm types mate right both will be impregnated and produce a cocoon filled with eggs which they deposit in the soil.
The incubation period is usually about 2 to 3 weeks. Another amazing thing about night crawlers is you can pull them apart into pieces and they will not die! So you can use partial pieces of nightcrawlers and still have fresh and lively bait.
Night crawlers and other worms do not have eyes or ears but they can sense vibrations. That is why when you are trying to catch them they sometimes retreat back into their burrows before you get to them because they are sensing the vibrations of your feet. Nightcrawlers are also sensitive to light. If you hunt nightcrawlers at night do not point the beam of your flashlight directly at the crawlers. because they will immediately start moving back into their burrows. Instead, fan your light across the grass quickly and take note where you think you saw crawlers. Next step very softly close to the nightcrawlers then shine your light quickly and at the same time put you fingers on and as close to the burrow as you can and pull gently up, so you don't pull the nightcrawler in half. On rainy nights if you see nightcrawlers that are paired up side by side by all means get these crawlers first because they are mating, and a good choice if you are starting a new worm farm.
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All types of nightcrawlers are very easy to raise. You can build yourself a worm box and store it in your basement,backyard or in your garage. You can make your worm box out of just about any material just make sure you make it big enough. A size of of about 2ft x 3 ft x 2ft deep is excellent. Fill the your worm box with fertile loamy soil. Wait for a good rainy night then go out and catch as many night crawlers as you can find and put them in your new worm box. Once you have enough night crawlers they will reproduce and you will have a constant supply of fresh night crawler bait.
Worms are "Hermaphrodites" which means they have both male and female sex organs. These sex organs are found in the dark spot that looks like a Normal 0 collar near the head. One nightcrawler cannot produce by itself. As the saying says. "It takes two to tangle." When two nightcrawlers or other worm types mate right both will be impregnated and produce a cocoon filled with eggs which they deposit in the soil.
The incubation period is usually about 2 to 3 weeks. Another amazing thing about night crawlers is you can pull them apart into pieces and they will not die! So you can use partial pieces of nightcrawlers and still have fresh and lively bait.
Night crawlers and other worms do not have eyes or ears but they can sense vibrations. That is why when you are trying to catch them they sometimes retreat back into their burrows before you get to them because they are sensing the vibrations of your feet. Nightcrawlers are also sensitive to light. If you hunt nightcrawlers at night do not point the beam of your flashlight directly at the crawlers. because they will immediately start moving back into their burrows. Instead, fan your light across the grass quickly and take note where you think you saw crawlers. Next step very softly close to the nightcrawlers then shine your light quickly and at the same time put you fingers on and as close to the burrow as you can and pull gently up, so you don't pull the nightcrawler in half. On rainy nights if you see nightcrawlers that are paired up side by side by all means get these crawlers first because they are mating, and a good choice if you are starting a new worm farm.
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Monday, September 14, 2009
Fishing Techniques - Catching Fish in the Fall
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Fishing Tips
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Monday, September 14, 2009
In the fall of the year, many outdoors people begin to concentrate on things other than fishing and this is a mistake. The fall is the best time of year for catching fish and in this article I'm going to outline some fishing techniques that will help you do just that. While many people are focusing on activities like sitting on a couch watching football, stomping around the woods hunting or performing menial yard work you need to be spending your fall fishing.
Sports vary from season to season, but the beautiful thing about fishing is that as long as you vary your fishing techniques you can continue fishing and catching fish in any season. As fall approaches and kicks into high gear, many species of fish tend to "stock up" on food before long cold days of winter. This is why fishing can be so productive in the fall of the year. The following fishing techniques will help you catch more fish.
Use Live Bait - In the fall of the year, live bait is extremely effective. The fishing technique is to rig your live bait on gang hooks. This is a great technique when fishing in the flowing water of a river or stream with a live worm as bait. The gang hooks are attached to your line using a small barrel swivel and small split shot sinkers are added for weight above the barrel swivel. The goal is to have your offering bounce along the bottom as it flows naturally with the current. This fishing technique is effective for both trout and smallmouth bass.
Lighten Your Line - This is important at all times of the year, but in the fall it seems even more important. A great technique is to use fishing that's as light as you can. The lighter your fishing line, the more bites you will receive, it's as simple as that. Do you realize that whatever pound test your fishing line is is the amount of dead weight that line will hold without breaking. This means if you're using six pound test fishing line your line will hold six pounds of weight without breaking, and this doesn't take into account the fact that your rod and drag help to take pressure off of you fishing line as well. The point is that you should lighten your fishing line as much as possible.
Use Mother Nature To Your Advantage - When it comes to fishing techniques this may be the most important. So, how do you use Mother Nature to your advantage? This is easier than you might imagine and when it comes to fishing techniques this one is as good as it gets. What you need to do is learn the simple ways the weather and moon impact fishing. These two forces of Mother Nature have as much to do with you catching fish as what kind of bait or lure you use. Use Mother Nature to your advantage in the fall of the year, and your catch rates will increase dramatically.
When it comes to catching fish in the fall, these tips will help you tremendously. Use one or all of them sooner rather than later and find out for yourself just how effective these fishing techniques are. The fall of the year is not only a great time of the year for fishing, but the scenery in most area's is as good as it gets as well.
Read more >>
Sports vary from season to season, but the beautiful thing about fishing is that as long as you vary your fishing techniques you can continue fishing and catching fish in any season. As fall approaches and kicks into high gear, many species of fish tend to "stock up" on food before long cold days of winter. This is why fishing can be so productive in the fall of the year. The following fishing techniques will help you catch more fish.
Use Live Bait - In the fall of the year, live bait is extremely effective. The fishing technique is to rig your live bait on gang hooks. This is a great technique when fishing in the flowing water of a river or stream with a live worm as bait. The gang hooks are attached to your line using a small barrel swivel and small split shot sinkers are added for weight above the barrel swivel. The goal is to have your offering bounce along the bottom as it flows naturally with the current. This fishing technique is effective for both trout and smallmouth bass.
Lighten Your Line - This is important at all times of the year, but in the fall it seems even more important. A great technique is to use fishing that's as light as you can. The lighter your fishing line, the more bites you will receive, it's as simple as that. Do you realize that whatever pound test your fishing line is is the amount of dead weight that line will hold without breaking. This means if you're using six pound test fishing line your line will hold six pounds of weight without breaking, and this doesn't take into account the fact that your rod and drag help to take pressure off of you fishing line as well. The point is that you should lighten your fishing line as much as possible.
Use Mother Nature To Your Advantage - When it comes to fishing techniques this may be the most important. So, how do you use Mother Nature to your advantage? This is easier than you might imagine and when it comes to fishing techniques this one is as good as it gets. What you need to do is learn the simple ways the weather and moon impact fishing. These two forces of Mother Nature have as much to do with you catching fish as what kind of bait or lure you use. Use Mother Nature to your advantage in the fall of the year, and your catch rates will increase dramatically.
When it comes to catching fish in the fall, these tips will help you tremendously. Use one or all of them sooner rather than later and find out for yourself just how effective these fishing techniques are. The fall of the year is not only a great time of the year for fishing, but the scenery in most area's is as good as it gets as well.
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Try searching or posting a question in the fishingnetwork Forum.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Walleye Fishing Tips - How to Fish For Walleye in the Weeds
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Fishing Tips
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Tuesday, July 28, 2009
The first step to consider when walleye fishing is simply finding the fish. Wherever they are, chances are good that they are there to find food. Though walleye can often be found in various locations, one spot that will always be worth fishing is the weedline. Vegetation such as coontail and cabbage provide attractive habitats for minnows and small baitfish. Where they are, you will find walleye.
Weeds are a good bet in nearly any walleye fishing situation. In early spring, walleye will be in the shallower water which warms first. In summertime walleye will hide down in the weeds to cool. In the fall, they will be gorging for the upcoming winter. If hungry walleye are what you seek, head for the weedline and bring a tackle box with some options.
The most surefire bet in the weeds is a jig tipped with live bait or plastic. This walleye lure presentation has proven successful in a wide range of conditions and at various times during the season. A jig can be very useful when it comes to enticing walleye out of the weeds because of its finesse-work it very slowly across the weed edge, incorporating subtle erratic movements as you lift and drop it along the bottom. Using a plastic like Gulp!, with a much more powerful scent than a real minnow, will also help pull the walleye out from hiding.
Another good option is using a spinner over the top of the weeds. Walleye tend to attack their prey from below, and a spinner tipped with bait or plastic makes for a tempting treat. The spinner blades use vibration and flash to attract walleye, displacing water which can be felt from a distance. Using a bottom bouncer with your spinner can also work really well.
Crankbaits can also work great over the top of vegetation. This is a good idea if you're exploring a larger area as well. Cranks can be trolled a bit faster than spinners and can be just as effective. Many walleye in the weeds will be somewhat aggressive, and often willing to chase down a moving fishing lure. Being patient and thorough will lend greatly to your success walleye fishing. Cover a lot of water until you find the fish. When you do, mix up your fishing lure presentations-there will always be something unexpected and surprising for you to discover.
Finding the weedline will be essential here. A quality electronic setup can be of great help. A general rule is usually the clearer the water you're fishing, the deeper the weeds will be. Once you've located them, boat control becomes very important-stay in the strike zone as long as possible and you're chances get better quickly.
Because of the great variety of life found in and around the vegetation underwater, large predators such as walleye will always be hanging around looking for an easy meal. This you know, and your advantage grows.
Read more >>
Weeds are a good bet in nearly any walleye fishing situation. In early spring, walleye will be in the shallower water which warms first. In summertime walleye will hide down in the weeds to cool. In the fall, they will be gorging for the upcoming winter. If hungry walleye are what you seek, head for the weedline and bring a tackle box with some options.
The most surefire bet in the weeds is a jig tipped with live bait or plastic. This walleye lure presentation has proven successful in a wide range of conditions and at various times during the season. A jig can be very useful when it comes to enticing walleye out of the weeds because of its finesse-work it very slowly across the weed edge, incorporating subtle erratic movements as you lift and drop it along the bottom. Using a plastic like Gulp!, with a much more powerful scent than a real minnow, will also help pull the walleye out from hiding.
Another good option is using a spinner over the top of the weeds. Walleye tend to attack their prey from below, and a spinner tipped with bait or plastic makes for a tempting treat. The spinner blades use vibration and flash to attract walleye, displacing water which can be felt from a distance. Using a bottom bouncer with your spinner can also work really well.
Crankbaits can also work great over the top of vegetation. This is a good idea if you're exploring a larger area as well. Cranks can be trolled a bit faster than spinners and can be just as effective. Many walleye in the weeds will be somewhat aggressive, and often willing to chase down a moving fishing lure. Being patient and thorough will lend greatly to your success walleye fishing. Cover a lot of water until you find the fish. When you do, mix up your fishing lure presentations-there will always be something unexpected and surprising for you to discover.
Finding the weedline will be essential here. A quality electronic setup can be of great help. A general rule is usually the clearer the water you're fishing, the deeper the weeds will be. Once you've located them, boat control becomes very important-stay in the strike zone as long as possible and you're chances get better quickly.
Because of the great variety of life found in and around the vegetation underwater, large predators such as walleye will always be hanging around looking for an easy meal. This you know, and your advantage grows.
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Try searching or posting a question in the fishingnetwork Forum.
Trout Baits - Choosing the Best Baits For Trout
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Fishing Tips
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Tuesday, July 28, 2009
When it comes to trout baits there are many choices available to us and choosing the best baits for trout can sometimes be a difficult decision. In this article we'll explore some of the more popular trout baits and provide some tips for choosing the best baits for trout fishing. Is there a single trout bait that is better than all the others? This is impossible to say, but every trout angler more than likely has his or her favorite. Whatever works best for you is "the best". Any of the trout baits below will catch trout, and the final decision as to "the best" is up to you.
In the world of trout baits any of these choices are effective, some more so than others. Give a few of them a shot for yourself and determine the most effective for you. These baits are being listed in no particular order.
Corn/Mallows/Cheese - These trout baits are most effective when used when fishing for stocked trout, that is trout that have been planted by your fish & game department. I personally barely consider these trout to be trout at all, but they nonetheless are trout. The use of corn, marshmallows, and cheese has long been staples to stocked trout fishermen. When using these trout baits hooks no larger that size 8 should be employed.
Artificial Trout Bait - Obviously artificial flies would be in this category, but since I'm not a fly fisherman I have no insight in flies, although they are an excellent trout bait. Small spinners are also great baits for trout, especially in river and stream situations. Panther Martin and Rooster Tail both make quality trout spinners. Effective sizes for trout fishing are from 3/16 to1/2 ounce. Effective colors vary, so having an assortment is always a great idea.
Live Bait - Live bait is my personal favorite bait for trout fishing. Effective live baits for trout would include worms, minnows, crayfish, and insects (suck as grasshoppers and crickets). There are others, but these are the most popular live trout baits. The problem with most live baits for trout fishing is that they can be difficult to carry with you, especially in river and stream situations (which is where much trout fishing is done). This is why my favorite trout bait is worms, and I carry my worms in a bait bag. A bait bag is simply a small pouch that carries your live worms while trout fishing. This saves a ton of time and makes baiting up very easy. Live baits, no matter what your favorite is, is probably the must effective of the trout baits, in my opinion.
Manufactured Baits - These trout baits would include trout bait such as Powerbait, Power worms, and Berkley Gulp products. There are other manufacturers as well, but the bottom line is that these baits are manufactures baits made to look and small like live bait. Manufactured baits such as Berkley's Gulp and Power products can be very effective trout baits. They are also much easier to carry and much less messy than many live baits. Manufactured trout baits are a viable alternative to live bait in many instances.
The baits just listed are the most popular and effective choices when it comes to trout fishing. Are there other? Of course, but when it comes to choosing the best baits for trout fishing these choices are among the most effective.
Read more >>
In the world of trout baits any of these choices are effective, some more so than others. Give a few of them a shot for yourself and determine the most effective for you. These baits are being listed in no particular order.
Corn/Mallows/Cheese - These trout baits are most effective when used when fishing for stocked trout, that is trout that have been planted by your fish & game department. I personally barely consider these trout to be trout at all, but they nonetheless are trout. The use of corn, marshmallows, and cheese has long been staples to stocked trout fishermen. When using these trout baits hooks no larger that size 8 should be employed.
Artificial Trout Bait - Obviously artificial flies would be in this category, but since I'm not a fly fisherman I have no insight in flies, although they are an excellent trout bait. Small spinners are also great baits for trout, especially in river and stream situations. Panther Martin and Rooster Tail both make quality trout spinners. Effective sizes for trout fishing are from 3/16 to1/2 ounce. Effective colors vary, so having an assortment is always a great idea.
Live Bait - Live bait is my personal favorite bait for trout fishing. Effective live baits for trout would include worms, minnows, crayfish, and insects (suck as grasshoppers and crickets). There are others, but these are the most popular live trout baits. The problem with most live baits for trout fishing is that they can be difficult to carry with you, especially in river and stream situations (which is where much trout fishing is done). This is why my favorite trout bait is worms, and I carry my worms in a bait bag. A bait bag is simply a small pouch that carries your live worms while trout fishing. This saves a ton of time and makes baiting up very easy. Live baits, no matter what your favorite is, is probably the must effective of the trout baits, in my opinion.
Manufactured Baits - These trout baits would include trout bait such as Powerbait, Power worms, and Berkley Gulp products. There are other manufacturers as well, but the bottom line is that these baits are manufactures baits made to look and small like live bait. Manufactured baits such as Berkley's Gulp and Power products can be very effective trout baits. They are also much easier to carry and much less messy than many live baits. Manufactured trout baits are a viable alternative to live bait in many instances.
The baits just listed are the most popular and effective choices when it comes to trout fishing. Are there other? Of course, but when it comes to choosing the best baits for trout fishing these choices are among the most effective.
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Try searching or posting a question in the fishingnetwork Forum.
Walleye Fishing Presentation Secrets
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Fishing Tips
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Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Using the rapid fire presentation method I'd like to talk about today in this report can give you significantly more bites and success every time out. There are some tricks to doing this though.
This one's a true game-changer: The rapid fire presentation method works so well because it offers a wide variety of baits and presentations to quickly determine which ones are the most effective for those specific conditions.
(Charting is also important with this method and many others, because this will allow you to look at these charts in the future and see what worked for those conditions, and what was not effective. This log and chart will help you in the future, as a guide to what has worked before for the same conditions and what had no effect.)
Here's how it works:
The rapid fire presentation method will start out using one bait and technique, and then change these every twenty to thirty minutes. This will allow you to locate the perfect bait and presentation for the Walleye and conditions where you are fishing. This method lets you zero in on exactly what is having success, and what is failing to gain the interest of the Walleye.
You can start out using live bait, without drifting or trolling, maybe using minnows, leeches or any other type of live bait you prefer. If you are not having success after twenty minutes, switch to crankbaits and see if the Walleye are interested. Use this to determine which type of bait the Walleye you are fishing for want.
After twenty minutes of crank baits, you can try switching to trolling using live bait. After twenty more minutes, switch to drifting with crankbaits. Using the rapid fire presentation method will allow you to narrow in on what works quickly and much more rapidly than the other anglers on the water. When you use the rapid fire presentation method, you can narrow the presentations even more within each component itself.
For example, if you notice that the Walleye seem to want live bait rather than crankbaits, try switching the type of live bait you are using every twenty minutes until you get good results. You may start out with a fat juicy earthworm, and give it twenty minutes to see how many bites you get. If this bait is not a big success, switch to a minnow. After twenty minutes with the minnow, change to a leech.
This method will let you cycle through your available live baits, to see which one is the most effective at the time. If crankbaits seem to be the ideal bait, try rotating colors every twenty minutes to see which colors are the best attractant. Make sure to mark down each bait as well as all the conditions present, and chart where you are using them for future reference. Determining which presentation works best can help you increase your success, and the rapid fire presentation method is the best way to quickly figure out which methods work best at that specific time.
Alternating between drifting and trolling every twenty minutes can help you pinpoint which method is more effective at the time. Then it's time to narrow it even further to find the perfect technique which is very successful. If trolling is working, and you are getting bites but are not catching much, try changing your trolling speed. Slow down or speed up at twenty minute intervals, to find the best speed for the fish for that day.
The rapid fire presentation method can also include varying the depth you are fishing at. Depending on the weather conditions and other pertinent factors, the fish may be near the surface, down close to the bottom, or suspended in the thermocline.
The depth can vary widely, and you can be fishing in a spot where Walleye are numerous, but if you are fishing at the wrong depth, using the wrong bait for the conditions, or using a presentation which is not effective, you will not catch the Walleye even if they are right underneath your boat.
The light levels may play a part in the depth, because if there is bright light the fish will sink down, or find underwater structure and weeds to escape the light in.
Usually in clear waters or when light is abundant, natural colored baits will work best but this is not always true. You can even switch from brightly colored baits to natural colored baits every twenty minutes, holding everything else constant. A variation of this rapid fire presentation method is used by many professionals and experienced anglers to improve their success in the shortest time possible.
It allows you to locate the ideal bait and presentation for any area and conditions by changing techniques and baits frequently in 20-minute intervals until you have success.
The biggest key of all is to only change one thing at a time: This allows you to zero in on catching more walleye and bigger walleye.
Read more >>
This one's a true game-changer: The rapid fire presentation method works so well because it offers a wide variety of baits and presentations to quickly determine which ones are the most effective for those specific conditions.
(Charting is also important with this method and many others, because this will allow you to look at these charts in the future and see what worked for those conditions, and what was not effective. This log and chart will help you in the future, as a guide to what has worked before for the same conditions and what had no effect.)
Here's how it works:
The rapid fire presentation method will start out using one bait and technique, and then change these every twenty to thirty minutes. This will allow you to locate the perfect bait and presentation for the Walleye and conditions where you are fishing. This method lets you zero in on exactly what is having success, and what is failing to gain the interest of the Walleye.
You can start out using live bait, without drifting or trolling, maybe using minnows, leeches or any other type of live bait you prefer. If you are not having success after twenty minutes, switch to crankbaits and see if the Walleye are interested. Use this to determine which type of bait the Walleye you are fishing for want.
After twenty minutes of crank baits, you can try switching to trolling using live bait. After twenty more minutes, switch to drifting with crankbaits. Using the rapid fire presentation method will allow you to narrow in on what works quickly and much more rapidly than the other anglers on the water. When you use the rapid fire presentation method, you can narrow the presentations even more within each component itself.
For example, if you notice that the Walleye seem to want live bait rather than crankbaits, try switching the type of live bait you are using every twenty minutes until you get good results. You may start out with a fat juicy earthworm, and give it twenty minutes to see how many bites you get. If this bait is not a big success, switch to a minnow. After twenty minutes with the minnow, change to a leech.
This method will let you cycle through your available live baits, to see which one is the most effective at the time. If crankbaits seem to be the ideal bait, try rotating colors every twenty minutes to see which colors are the best attractant. Make sure to mark down each bait as well as all the conditions present, and chart where you are using them for future reference. Determining which presentation works best can help you increase your success, and the rapid fire presentation method is the best way to quickly figure out which methods work best at that specific time.
Alternating between drifting and trolling every twenty minutes can help you pinpoint which method is more effective at the time. Then it's time to narrow it even further to find the perfect technique which is very successful. If trolling is working, and you are getting bites but are not catching much, try changing your trolling speed. Slow down or speed up at twenty minute intervals, to find the best speed for the fish for that day.
The rapid fire presentation method can also include varying the depth you are fishing at. Depending on the weather conditions and other pertinent factors, the fish may be near the surface, down close to the bottom, or suspended in the thermocline.
The depth can vary widely, and you can be fishing in a spot where Walleye are numerous, but if you are fishing at the wrong depth, using the wrong bait for the conditions, or using a presentation which is not effective, you will not catch the Walleye even if they are right underneath your boat.
The light levels may play a part in the depth, because if there is bright light the fish will sink down, or find underwater structure and weeds to escape the light in.
Usually in clear waters or when light is abundant, natural colored baits will work best but this is not always true. You can even switch from brightly colored baits to natural colored baits every twenty minutes, holding everything else constant. A variation of this rapid fire presentation method is used by many professionals and experienced anglers to improve their success in the shortest time possible.
It allows you to locate the ideal bait and presentation for any area and conditions by changing techniques and baits frequently in 20-minute intervals until you have success.
The biggest key of all is to only change one thing at a time: This allows you to zero in on catching more walleye and bigger walleye.
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Try searching or posting a question in the fishingnetwork Forum.
Using the Correct Fishing Lure to Land That Perfect Catch
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
It is difficult to rival real bait when it comes to tempting a fish to bite. However, live bait is not always easy to get so the next best thing is a quality fishing lure. In fact, with the the proper fishing lure you have a good chance of making a big catch.
A fishing lure basically simulates the movements and colors of real prey to encourage the fish to attack. Lures can have one, two, or maybe three hooks which will catch the fish when it bites.
Fishing lures are usually used with fishing rods. They are cast out by the fisherman and simulate the movements of the prey as they are reeled back in. With some practice, the fisherman can also use the fishing rod to help make the fishing lure's movements look more genuine to fish.
There are numerous different kinds of fishing lures for different types of fish, fishing and settings. Here are a few of the most popular varieties:
Spoon lures - To us these just look like the top of a spoon. However, as they move underwater they create glints of light that copies the sun reflecting off a fish's skin.
Artificial flies - These fishing lures are utilized in in fly fishing. The lure is in the shape of a winged insect that the fisherman makes hop on the surface of the water.
Plugs - These fishing lures resemble little fish and move accordingly as they move in the water.
Soft lures - These are a basic form of fishing lure, made out of plastic or rubber to resemble worms, frogs and other kinds of water dwellers.
Fishing lures have many advantages over real bait. As mentioned, they are easily at hand whenever you decide to go fishing. Also, they save money as they can be used again and again, whereas real bait has a very short lifespan. What is more, by using fishing lures you are helping the environment. Importantly, you will help promote the fish population by not contributing to the harvesting of live bait. In addition, it is proven that lures cause less harm to fish during 'catch and release' fishing, again helping to maintain fish populations.
Fishing lures are available in any fishing shop, on the internet or you can easily make your own. Effective lures can be made from many household objects, including metal, plastic, string, tinsel, wire or wood. If it shines and looks like bait it may be all you need to land you your next big fish.
Read more >>
A fishing lure basically simulates the movements and colors of real prey to encourage the fish to attack. Lures can have one, two, or maybe three hooks which will catch the fish when it bites.
Fishing lures are usually used with fishing rods. They are cast out by the fisherman and simulate the movements of the prey as they are reeled back in. With some practice, the fisherman can also use the fishing rod to help make the fishing lure's movements look more genuine to fish.
There are numerous different kinds of fishing lures for different types of fish, fishing and settings. Here are a few of the most popular varieties:
Spoon lures - To us these just look like the top of a spoon. However, as they move underwater they create glints of light that copies the sun reflecting off a fish's skin.
Artificial flies - These fishing lures are utilized in in fly fishing. The lure is in the shape of a winged insect that the fisherman makes hop on the surface of the water.
Plugs - These fishing lures resemble little fish and move accordingly as they move in the water.
Soft lures - These are a basic form of fishing lure, made out of plastic or rubber to resemble worms, frogs and other kinds of water dwellers.
Fishing lures have many advantages over real bait. As mentioned, they are easily at hand whenever you decide to go fishing. Also, they save money as they can be used again and again, whereas real bait has a very short lifespan. What is more, by using fishing lures you are helping the environment. Importantly, you will help promote the fish population by not contributing to the harvesting of live bait. In addition, it is proven that lures cause less harm to fish during 'catch and release' fishing, again helping to maintain fish populations.
Fishing lures are available in any fishing shop, on the internet or you can easily make your own. Effective lures can be made from many household objects, including metal, plastic, string, tinsel, wire or wood. If it shines and looks like bait it may be all you need to land you your next big fish.
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One of the Most Important Walleye Fishing Secrets of All
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
You know, when it comes to Walleye fishing, testing is the key. Testing will allow you to zone in on what is effective and successful right now, and what will just waste your time on the water and leave you frustrated at the end of the trip.
Testing can give you the answer to everything: The right bait, the right presentation, the right speed, and the right location. Testing can help you locate the fish and entice them to you more successfully and make your fishing trips more productive. When you first arrive at your fishing location, testing is the ideal way to find out what the fish want and where they are.
Start with one presentation and bait, and if you do not have any bites within ten or fifteen minutes try changing something. This can be your bait, your location, your speed, or your presentation. By changing something you are testing to see what is going to work and draw the fish, and what is not working and needs to be changed. Only change one or two variables at a time though (preferably just one at a time), to ensure that you are exploring all the options and are not changing too many things at once. This can make it hard to eliminate single factors from the equation.
Testing different baits can help you locate exactly what baits are popular with the Walleye in the area you are fishing. Look at the natural baits available to the fish, and start with similar baits. If there is not much of a response to the first test bait, try another bait. If live baits do not get much of a response from the Walleye, try testing out crankbaits instead.
Testing many different things will help you determine the best method to catch the most Walleye. Walleye fishing means always changing and adapting, because many times these fish may act against what their expected behavior is. Teesting is the way that you can change your fishing to meet the conditions and patterns of the fish. Even if the conditions are the same on two different days, the techniques and baits that work may not be.
Testing can eliminate guesswork. Testing is the ULTIMATE key to unlocking the secrets of walleye fishing. The walleye wants to strike at your bait. Testing is the fastest way to find out what they want on any particular day. Changing many different things in a scientific way to find out what works and testing different theories is one of the most effective ways to catch these tricky fish.
Read more >>
Testing can give you the answer to everything: The right bait, the right presentation, the right speed, and the right location. Testing can help you locate the fish and entice them to you more successfully and make your fishing trips more productive. When you first arrive at your fishing location, testing is the ideal way to find out what the fish want and where they are.
Start with one presentation and bait, and if you do not have any bites within ten or fifteen minutes try changing something. This can be your bait, your location, your speed, or your presentation. By changing something you are testing to see what is going to work and draw the fish, and what is not working and needs to be changed. Only change one or two variables at a time though (preferably just one at a time), to ensure that you are exploring all the options and are not changing too many things at once. This can make it hard to eliminate single factors from the equation.
Testing different baits can help you locate exactly what baits are popular with the Walleye in the area you are fishing. Look at the natural baits available to the fish, and start with similar baits. If there is not much of a response to the first test bait, try another bait. If live baits do not get much of a response from the Walleye, try testing out crankbaits instead.
Testing many different things will help you determine the best method to catch the most Walleye. Walleye fishing means always changing and adapting, because many times these fish may act against what their expected behavior is. Teesting is the way that you can change your fishing to meet the conditions and patterns of the fish. Even if the conditions are the same on two different days, the techniques and baits that work may not be.
Testing can eliminate guesswork. Testing is the ULTIMATE key to unlocking the secrets of walleye fishing. The walleye wants to strike at your bait. Testing is the fastest way to find out what they want on any particular day. Changing many different things in a scientific way to find out what works and testing different theories is one of the most effective ways to catch these tricky fish.
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Sunday, July 12, 2009
Striper Season
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Early Spring:
Monitor water temperatures, looking for the warmest water you can find that isn't
muddy. Stripers do not like muddy water and will stay ahead of it as it flows into the
lakes after spring rains.
Stripers cannot spawn successfully in most lakes, but they make
an attempt to spawn. They start moving toward their spawning grounds, usually in the tailwaters of the upstream dam,
rivers or large creek feeds when the lake warms into the lower 50s .
As they move, stripers stop and feed along key main-lake structures. Long slow tapering
points that connect with the deep lake river channels are especially good. It is always a
good idea is to check these points beginning in the middle of the reservoir, working your
way up the lake until you locate schools of stripers. Some stripers may stay on long
points and attempt to spawn there rather than move into the headwaters.
Spring:
As the water temp. approaches 60 degrees, look for shallow points in the upper end of
the lakes. Clear, flowing water attracts spawning stripers, so don't be afraid to venture
into extreme shallows upriver. If these areas are muddy, move back down the lake until you
find clear water. Start looking for humps and points, that's where the stripers will be.
Summer:
This is prime live bait time! Stripers are likely to be deep, locate the stripers on
your graph and notice the depth of suspending baitfish schools. Then fish just above this
depth. Stripers feed up, they will seldom go down to take a bait.
Trolling multiple lines at different depths works. Troll across primary main lake
structures, especially humps and points (both shallow and deep), around islands and along
bluff banks. All of these spots attract baitfish. Concentrate on the midsection of the
lake down to the headwaters. Stripers are likely to be sluggish in warm water, so don't
troll too fast.
Fall:
This is a time of transition for stripers. In deep, clear lakes, the water remains warm
longer in early fall, so trolling or live bait is still your best bet. Troll a bit faster
and move your lures progressively shallower as the water cools. When it drops down to the
mid-60s, stripers move much shallower and will be catchable early and late in the day on
long main lake points and humps, and in the deeper creek arms. Feeding activity is likely
to be intense now, so faster moving presentations should draw savage strikes.
Winter:
When the water temp. drops into the mid-50s, stripers move shallow and gorge themselves
on bait fish. I don't mean that you fish the banks for them. I mean that they will feed,
in many instances near the surface. The water below them might be 75 feet, but stripers
will attack bait closer to the surface. Key on shallow flats, points, and creek arms. Down
line fishing and float rigs work well this time of year.
Read more >>
Monitor water temperatures, looking for the warmest water you can find that isn't
muddy. Stripers do not like muddy water and will stay ahead of it as it flows into the
lakes after spring rains.
Stripers cannot spawn successfully in most lakes, but they make
an attempt to spawn. They start moving toward their spawning grounds, usually in the tailwaters of the upstream dam,
rivers or large creek feeds when the lake warms into the lower 50s .
As they move, stripers stop and feed along key main-lake structures. Long slow tapering
points that connect with the deep lake river channels are especially good. It is always a
good idea is to check these points beginning in the middle of the reservoir, working your
way up the lake until you locate schools of stripers. Some stripers may stay on long
points and attempt to spawn there rather than move into the headwaters.
Spring:
As the water temp. approaches 60 degrees, look for shallow points in the upper end of
the lakes. Clear, flowing water attracts spawning stripers, so don't be afraid to venture
into extreme shallows upriver. If these areas are muddy, move back down the lake until you
find clear water. Start looking for humps and points, that's where the stripers will be.
Summer:
This is prime live bait time! Stripers are likely to be deep, locate the stripers on
your graph and notice the depth of suspending baitfish schools. Then fish just above this
depth. Stripers feed up, they will seldom go down to take a bait.
Trolling multiple lines at different depths works. Troll across primary main lake
structures, especially humps and points (both shallow and deep), around islands and along
bluff banks. All of these spots attract baitfish. Concentrate on the midsection of the
lake down to the headwaters. Stripers are likely to be sluggish in warm water, so don't
troll too fast.
Fall:
This is a time of transition for stripers. In deep, clear lakes, the water remains warm
longer in early fall, so trolling or live bait is still your best bet. Troll a bit faster
and move your lures progressively shallower as the water cools. When it drops down to the
mid-60s, stripers move much shallower and will be catchable early and late in the day on
long main lake points and humps, and in the deeper creek arms. Feeding activity is likely
to be intense now, so faster moving presentations should draw savage strikes.
Winter:
When the water temp. drops into the mid-50s, stripers move shallow and gorge themselves
on bait fish. I don't mean that you fish the banks for them. I mean that they will feed,
in many instances near the surface. The water below them might be 75 feet, but stripers
will attack bait closer to the surface. Key on shallow flats, points, and creek arms. Down
line fishing and float rigs work well this time of year.
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Tuesday, June 30, 2009
5 Keys to Choosing Your Fishing Lure Color
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
When it comes to catching fish, some typical questions anglers ask are "what did you catch them on" and "what color did you use"? These are probably 2 of the most common questions that we anglers carry in our vocabulary - and why not, they are important.
Does Color Make a Difference?
Yes, color makes a difference & can make a big difference. Even when fish are very aggressive & active, you may find that you are catching fish on all colors - but - you may have caught more fish or bigger fish on the "right" color. Lure Color is one key to having great days on the water.
Tips on Using Silver or Gold Colors
Silver & gold are your "bread and butter" colors. They are your basic colors which will work in all situations. As a general rule, silver is a great color to use on bright, sunny days, where as on darker, cloudy days, gold would be best.
Also, consider the water clarity you are fishing. If the water you are fishing in is clear, then silver would work best. Silver gives off tremendous flash in clear water, especially on a sunny day. Fish will be able to see your lure form quite a distance.
If the water you are fishing is rather "tea-stained" or a bit dirty or "cloudy", then the gold color lure would be your best choice. Gold has fantastic reflective qualities in tea-stained/dirty water - much better that silver.
Keep these two simple tips in mind when choosing between silver and gold based lures, and you will be certain to have a better day of catching fish!
Dark Lures on Dark Days & Bright Lures on Bright Days
A general rule of thumb anglers follow is to use bright color lures on bright days & dark color lures on dark days. As a general rule, this is somewhat true, although keep in mind that black will always work, regardless of the day.
Lure Color & Different Depths
If you are fishing down 20 feet deep & catching plenty of fish on a particular lure, and then the fishing slows & you find out the fish have moved deeper - the same lure may not be as effective.
This is because as you go deeper, the reflective quality changes & thus the appearance changes. So the next time you ask "what color did you catch them on" the next question should be "how deep were you fishing"?
Choose you colors wisely & try different colors on different days & at different depths. Keep in mind some of the tips noted above & you will be able to figure a winning pattern!
Until next time, good luck & good fishing.
Read more >>
Does Color Make a Difference?
Yes, color makes a difference & can make a big difference. Even when fish are very aggressive & active, you may find that you are catching fish on all colors - but - you may have caught more fish or bigger fish on the "right" color. Lure Color is one key to having great days on the water.
Tips on Using Silver or Gold Colors
Silver & gold are your "bread and butter" colors. They are your basic colors which will work in all situations. As a general rule, silver is a great color to use on bright, sunny days, where as on darker, cloudy days, gold would be best.
Also, consider the water clarity you are fishing. If the water you are fishing in is clear, then silver would work best. Silver gives off tremendous flash in clear water, especially on a sunny day. Fish will be able to see your lure form quite a distance.
If the water you are fishing is rather "tea-stained" or a bit dirty or "cloudy", then the gold color lure would be your best choice. Gold has fantastic reflective qualities in tea-stained/dirty water - much better that silver.
Keep these two simple tips in mind when choosing between silver and gold based lures, and you will be certain to have a better day of catching fish!
Dark Lures on Dark Days & Bright Lures on Bright Days
A general rule of thumb anglers follow is to use bright color lures on bright days & dark color lures on dark days. As a general rule, this is somewhat true, although keep in mind that black will always work, regardless of the day.
Lure Color & Different Depths
If you are fishing down 20 feet deep & catching plenty of fish on a particular lure, and then the fishing slows & you find out the fish have moved deeper - the same lure may not be as effective.
This is because as you go deeper, the reflective quality changes & thus the appearance changes. So the next time you ask "what color did you catch them on" the next question should be "how deep were you fishing"?
Choose you colors wisely & try different colors on different days & at different depths. Keep in mind some of the tips noted above & you will be able to figure a winning pattern!
Until next time, good luck & good fishing.
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Try searching or posting a question in the fishingnetwork Forum.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
General Steelhead Fishing Tips
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Perhaps the most effective way to become a successful steelhead angler is to know a river well, and have confidence in your tactics and technique.
Don’t waste your time randomly chasing down rumors of hot fishing. Instead, learn where the steelhead are by getting to know one or two rivers well. This can involve visiting the river in the summer and other seasons to observe holes, resting places, riffles, and other habitat features that add to your knowledge of where to fish effectively. It is often said that 90 percent of the fish are caught by 10 percent of the fishermen, and this is probably truer with steelhead than any other fish. Many of the world’s best steelhead anglers call Oregon home and they tend to focus on four major elements: When, Where, What and How.
When are there steelhead in the river?
Winter steelhead generally return to rivers from November through May, depending on the river. Steelhead anglers need to learn the run timing of the rivers they fish, watch for concentrations of other anglers, contact local hatcheries for return information, read fishing articles, and check several Websites for updated information on steelhead returns.
Also, successful winter steelhead angling depends primarily on water temperature, river levels or flow rates, and water clarity.
Where are the steelhead in the river?
Steelhead are not evenly distributed throughout a river and knowing where they tend to hold up or congregate is key to fishing success. In general, ODFW has reduced or eliminated “scatter planting” of steelhead to avoid straying and possible spawning by hatchery fish. This means that most of the better fishing for hatchery fish will be at or below the fish hatchery or a single release location.
Within the river, steelhead typically prefer some type of holding water. While this varies with water conditions, anglers should generally focus their effort on runs or glides of moderate depth and current. Many experienced steelhead anglers concentrate on learning the rivers they fish.
How are the steelhead caught?
There are many steelhead fishing techniques, from fishing a bright pink worm under a bobber to swinging a small nymph on a fly line. Whatever the technique there are three keys to catching steelhead: putting the bait, lure or fly in front of as many fish as possible; being able to detect the often subtle strike of a steelhead and setting the hook; and being able to fight and land a large aggressive fish. The best way to learn these skills is to spend time on the water.
The more you practice your technique and learn how tofocus on subtleties, the more steelhead you will hook. Often it is the simple things -- slack line, dull hooks, wind knots, and lack of concentration – that cause an angler to miss a strike or lose a fish.
What do I use to catch steelhead?
If you’ve seen the variety of gear for sale in the local sporting good stores, you may think that a steelhead will bite almost anything. There are, however, some tried-and-true techniques for catching steelhead.
• Drift-fishing small, buoyant lures, with or without bait, along the bottom.
• Fishing with a float/bobber with a jig or bait under it. (Popular baits include cured eggs, sand shrimp, worms, crayfish tails and prawns.)
• Casting spinners and spoons.
• Fly-fishing, often with a sinking line and large, mobile fly.
• Backtrolling plugs or diver/bait combinations from a boat.
With all these methods to choose from, the best approach is to master one and fish what you know most of the time. After you feel that you have mastered the basic technique, start trying out new gear or methods. Remember, if you are consistently pulling your line out of the water to change your lure, it is not fishing and you are not catching anything! Surplus hatchery steelhead returning to ODFW hatcheries are often stocked into local lakes to provide additional angling opportunities. Casting lures or flies from the shore or a boat are the most common technique for catching steelhead released in lakes. We hope you get the opportunity to feel the fight of the steelhead on your line; it is definitely a one-of-a-kind experience.
Angling Ethics
We hope you enjoy the experience of fishing some of the nation’s most beautiful steelhead waters. Please help us keep them beautiful. We ask that you be courteous and respectful to other fishermen—there is plenty of room for everyone to enjoy themselves.
When boat fishing, it is considered poor angler ethics to cast into holes that bank anglers are fishing.
In order to preserve Oregon’s wild stocks of steelhead, many of Oregon’s wild steelhead are catch-and-release only. Please use the following techniques to help increase survival of and minimize fishing impacts on wild fish.
• Use barbless hooks. While barbless hooks are not mandatory on most of Oregon’s fisheries, they can be easier to remove from fish and anglers (this reducing stress to both.)
• Land your fish quickly to help increase survival rates.
• Use needle nose pliers to remove deeply imbedded hooks. If you can’t remove the hook without harming the fish, cut the leader. The hook will rust out after a
few days in the water.
• Keep your fish in at least six inches of water while releasing it. Fish can be injured if allowed to flop on shore. Grasp fish by the tail and place your other hand under the belly, lifting slightly. If you plan to take a photograph of the fish, make sure that you have framed the picture and focused the camera before takingthe fish out of water, and then only hold the fish out of water (preferably only partly out of water) for one or two seconds.
• Revive the fish before release. Keep the fish upright facing into the current. If current is slow, move fish back and forth slowly to help oxygenate the gills.
Read more >>
Don’t waste your time randomly chasing down rumors of hot fishing. Instead, learn where the steelhead are by getting to know one or two rivers well. This can involve visiting the river in the summer and other seasons to observe holes, resting places, riffles, and other habitat features that add to your knowledge of where to fish effectively. It is often said that 90 percent of the fish are caught by 10 percent of the fishermen, and this is probably truer with steelhead than any other fish. Many of the world’s best steelhead anglers call Oregon home and they tend to focus on four major elements: When, Where, What and How.
When are there steelhead in the river?
Winter steelhead generally return to rivers from November through May, depending on the river. Steelhead anglers need to learn the run timing of the rivers they fish, watch for concentrations of other anglers, contact local hatcheries for return information, read fishing articles, and check several Websites for updated information on steelhead returns.
Also, successful winter steelhead angling depends primarily on water temperature, river levels or flow rates, and water clarity.
Where are the steelhead in the river?
Steelhead are not evenly distributed throughout a river and knowing where they tend to hold up or congregate is key to fishing success. In general, ODFW has reduced or eliminated “scatter planting” of steelhead to avoid straying and possible spawning by hatchery fish. This means that most of the better fishing for hatchery fish will be at or below the fish hatchery or a single release location.
Within the river, steelhead typically prefer some type of holding water. While this varies with water conditions, anglers should generally focus their effort on runs or glides of moderate depth and current. Many experienced steelhead anglers concentrate on learning the rivers they fish.
How are the steelhead caught?
There are many steelhead fishing techniques, from fishing a bright pink worm under a bobber to swinging a small nymph on a fly line. Whatever the technique there are three keys to catching steelhead: putting the bait, lure or fly in front of as many fish as possible; being able to detect the often subtle strike of a steelhead and setting the hook; and being able to fight and land a large aggressive fish. The best way to learn these skills is to spend time on the water.
The more you practice your technique and learn how tofocus on subtleties, the more steelhead you will hook. Often it is the simple things -- slack line, dull hooks, wind knots, and lack of concentration – that cause an angler to miss a strike or lose a fish.
What do I use to catch steelhead?
If you’ve seen the variety of gear for sale in the local sporting good stores, you may think that a steelhead will bite almost anything. There are, however, some tried-and-true techniques for catching steelhead.
• Drift-fishing small, buoyant lures, with or without bait, along the bottom.
• Fishing with a float/bobber with a jig or bait under it. (Popular baits include cured eggs, sand shrimp, worms, crayfish tails and prawns.)
• Casting spinners and spoons.
• Fly-fishing, often with a sinking line and large, mobile fly.
• Backtrolling plugs or diver/bait combinations from a boat.
With all these methods to choose from, the best approach is to master one and fish what you know most of the time. After you feel that you have mastered the basic technique, start trying out new gear or methods. Remember, if you are consistently pulling your line out of the water to change your lure, it is not fishing and you are not catching anything! Surplus hatchery steelhead returning to ODFW hatcheries are often stocked into local lakes to provide additional angling opportunities. Casting lures or flies from the shore or a boat are the most common technique for catching steelhead released in lakes. We hope you get the opportunity to feel the fight of the steelhead on your line; it is definitely a one-of-a-kind experience.
Angling Ethics
We hope you enjoy the experience of fishing some of the nation’s most beautiful steelhead waters. Please help us keep them beautiful. We ask that you be courteous and respectful to other fishermen—there is plenty of room for everyone to enjoy themselves.
When boat fishing, it is considered poor angler ethics to cast into holes that bank anglers are fishing.
In order to preserve Oregon’s wild stocks of steelhead, many of Oregon’s wild steelhead are catch-and-release only. Please use the following techniques to help increase survival of and minimize fishing impacts on wild fish.
• Use barbless hooks. While barbless hooks are not mandatory on most of Oregon’s fisheries, they can be easier to remove from fish and anglers (this reducing stress to both.)
• Land your fish quickly to help increase survival rates.
• Use needle nose pliers to remove deeply imbedded hooks. If you can’t remove the hook without harming the fish, cut the leader. The hook will rust out after a
few days in the water.
• Keep your fish in at least six inches of water while releasing it. Fish can be injured if allowed to flop on shore. Grasp fish by the tail and place your other hand under the belly, lifting slightly. If you plan to take a photograph of the fish, make sure that you have framed the picture and focused the camera before takingthe fish out of water, and then only hold the fish out of water (preferably only partly out of water) for one or two seconds.
• Revive the fish before release. Keep the fish upright facing into the current. If current is slow, move fish back and forth slowly to help oxygenate the gills.
Didn't find what you were looking for?
Try searching or posting a question in the fishingnetwork Forum.
River Channel Secrets
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Bass fishing river channels wandering through your local reservoir can be the secret to a successful outing. Reservoirs are often full of shoreline vegetation, incoming creeks and even timber but the channel itself is often neglected. Let's look at some tips to be much more successful in locating channel hot spots.
1- Find the shallowest water adjacent to the drop to the river channel. This shallow hump or flat are like bass magnets especially if there is underwater structure like stumps or vegetation.
2- Work the upwind drop to the river channel. The bass often are waiting to ambush shad as they are blown from the hump/flat to the river channel.
3- Try a Carolina rig or deep diving crankbait in shad color to work the shallow to deep drop.
4- Look for shad on your depth finder anywhere adjacent to the river channel. This is an important factor in locating feeding bass.
5- If you catch a fish, immediately throw out a marker. Fish often tightly school along river channels.
Read more >>
1- Find the shallowest water adjacent to the drop to the river channel. This shallow hump or flat are like bass magnets especially if there is underwater structure like stumps or vegetation.
2- Work the upwind drop to the river channel. The bass often are waiting to ambush shad as they are blown from the hump/flat to the river channel.
3- Try a Carolina rig or deep diving crankbait in shad color to work the shallow to deep drop.
4- Look for shad on your depth finder anywhere adjacent to the river channel. This is an important factor in locating feeding bass.
5- If you catch a fish, immediately throw out a marker. Fish often tightly school along river channels.
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Simple Tips for Plastic Worm Fishing
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
The plastic worm is an all around great bass fishing lure that provokes strikes from the largemouth bass even if they are not heavily feeding. There are many ways to fish this bait but here are a few pointers to make you better at getting the bass to take it.
1- When rigging your worm either Texas or Carolina style make sure it's straight on the hook. This prevents line twist and also unnatural swimming action during the retrieve. One tip for doing this is once the hook is inserted into the head and rotated, measure by bringing the bend down to the worms body before insertion and mark the imaginary insertion point with your thumb. Insert the hook into this point.
2- Try some of the straight do nothing style worms like the Zoom trick worm. Although they don't appear to have action, their light slim body provides a natural falling action and movement during the retrieve and their salt filled bodies make the bass hang on longer for a better hook set.
3- Try rigging the hook by using an offset wide gapped hook and insert the hook point completely through the worms body. Once the point is through pull the worms head up a notch and allow the soft plastic to come back and cover the point. This provides a better chance for a strong hook set into the fishes mouth.
4- If the worm's head is "chewed" up, rig it wacky style through the middle of the body. This will often extend your worm life and save you money.
5- Always use a fish attractant. It will help mask the oils and sunscreen from your hands.
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1- When rigging your worm either Texas or Carolina style make sure it's straight on the hook. This prevents line twist and also unnatural swimming action during the retrieve. One tip for doing this is once the hook is inserted into the head and rotated, measure by bringing the bend down to the worms body before insertion and mark the imaginary insertion point with your thumb. Insert the hook into this point.
2- Try some of the straight do nothing style worms like the Zoom trick worm. Although they don't appear to have action, their light slim body provides a natural falling action and movement during the retrieve and their salt filled bodies make the bass hang on longer for a better hook set.
3- Try rigging the hook by using an offset wide gapped hook and insert the hook point completely through the worms body. Once the point is through pull the worms head up a notch and allow the soft plastic to come back and cover the point. This provides a better chance for a strong hook set into the fishes mouth.
4- If the worm's head is "chewed" up, rig it wacky style through the middle of the body. This will often extend your worm life and save you money.
5- Always use a fish attractant. It will help mask the oils and sunscreen from your hands.
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Top 5 Methods for Catching Bass
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Fishing Tips
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Tuesday, June 16, 2009
1- Casting a Texas Rigged Worm: This method works best for me in waters 7 foot deep or less. The worm weight varies from 1/8 oz to 1/4 oz. Work underwater vegetation such as hydrilla or visible cover such as bulrush or pads. The shallower the water the lighter the weight should be unless it is very windy, then upsize your sinker.
After the cast, work the bait slowly along the bottom with the rod and try to bump any underwater or visible structure. You need to set the hook immediately with any sign of line movement or any felt resistance.
2- Pitching a Texas Rigged Worm: This method works best in 4 foot or less depths along visible vegetation or timber. Weights are similar to casting however when working heavy cover weights to 1/2 ounce maybe needed.
Pitch past your target and work the worm into the cover. Look very any movement of the line during the slow retrieve as this will signal a strike.
3- Flippin a Texas Rigged Worm or Craw Imitation: I like to work straight tailed worms like trickworms or craw imitators such as Sweet Beavers to flip through matted vegetation. Depths as shallow as 1 foot to over 8 feet can be flipped. Heavy timber is one candidate for flippin but my personal favorite is matted vegetation such as hyacinths, floating/broken up Kissimmee grass and hydrilla mats. Finding the mats in lily pad fields or reed lines is ideal.
Flip either directly through the mats using heavy 3/4 to 1 oz weights or pick the holes in the mats with a 1/2 to 3/4 ounce weight. Most hits come on the fall so look for early "line stoppage", line twitch, sideways motion or a distinct thump. Also when pulling the lure back up try to feel for any resistance then set the hook quickly.
4- Carolina rigged worms: This rig is great for anything 9 foot or deeper. Cat the rig as far as possible along submerged timber lines, vegetation lines or drops/humps into river channels.
The rig consists of a 3/4 ounce egg sinker, a plastic bead, a barrel swivel, a leader 2-3' long and an offset worm hook and worm.
Slowly drag the worm along the bottom with a sideward motion and any line movement or thump will be a fish on so set the hook hard as line stretch will lower the hook setting force.
5- Casting Deep Diving Crankbaits: Work these rigs from as shallow as 7 feet to as deep as 15 feet. A #7 shadrap is good for the shallower depths, moving up to a #9 for depths as deep as 10 feet. DT series 12-16 rapalas are excellent for the remaining depths.
My best success has been on long casts parallel to structure such as drops and submerged timber. Crank the bait down quickly for the 1st 4-5 turns then use a steady retrieve. If done properly you will be hitting the bottom. Any resistance requires a hard sideways hook set.
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After the cast, work the bait slowly along the bottom with the rod and try to bump any underwater or visible structure. You need to set the hook immediately with any sign of line movement or any felt resistance.
2- Pitching a Texas Rigged Worm: This method works best in 4 foot or less depths along visible vegetation or timber. Weights are similar to casting however when working heavy cover weights to 1/2 ounce maybe needed.
Pitch past your target and work the worm into the cover. Look very any movement of the line during the slow retrieve as this will signal a strike.
3- Flippin a Texas Rigged Worm or Craw Imitation: I like to work straight tailed worms like trickworms or craw imitators such as Sweet Beavers to flip through matted vegetation. Depths as shallow as 1 foot to over 8 feet can be flipped. Heavy timber is one candidate for flippin but my personal favorite is matted vegetation such as hyacinths, floating/broken up Kissimmee grass and hydrilla mats. Finding the mats in lily pad fields or reed lines is ideal.
Flip either directly through the mats using heavy 3/4 to 1 oz weights or pick the holes in the mats with a 1/2 to 3/4 ounce weight. Most hits come on the fall so look for early "line stoppage", line twitch, sideways motion or a distinct thump. Also when pulling the lure back up try to feel for any resistance then set the hook quickly.
4- Carolina rigged worms: This rig is great for anything 9 foot or deeper. Cat the rig as far as possible along submerged timber lines, vegetation lines or drops/humps into river channels.
The rig consists of a 3/4 ounce egg sinker, a plastic bead, a barrel swivel, a leader 2-3' long and an offset worm hook and worm.
Slowly drag the worm along the bottom with a sideward motion and any line movement or thump will be a fish on so set the hook hard as line stretch will lower the hook setting force.
5- Casting Deep Diving Crankbaits: Work these rigs from as shallow as 7 feet to as deep as 15 feet. A #7 shadrap is good for the shallower depths, moving up to a #9 for depths as deep as 10 feet. DT series 12-16 rapalas are excellent for the remaining depths.
My best success has been on long casts parallel to structure such as drops and submerged timber. Crank the bait down quickly for the 1st 4-5 turns then use a steady retrieve. If done properly you will be hitting the bottom. Any resistance requires a hard sideways hook set.
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Bass Fishing Tip of the Line size, The Key to More Largemouth Bass
Category:
Fishing Tips
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Tuesday, June 16, 2009
On many pressured lakes in Florida, the largemouth bass is often a finicky creature. No matter what you throw, you just can't seem to catch any bass with any size or maybe not even catch any bass at all. Through many years of trial and error I've found that line size is very important in producing strikes.
Why is line size so important to getting strikes? The most important reason is line visibility. The smaller the diameter of the line, the less likely that the fish will see it. In clear water lakes, smaller diameter lines are a must to coax the leery largemouth.
Another factor for downsizing your line is lure action. Thinner diameter lines produces less drag in the water and allows your lure to give a more lifelike action. Crankbaits are especially apt to loose action with the heavier lines. I often fish crankbaits with 10 pound test on a spinning rod. This enables me to downsize my line, cast lighter crankbaits further and run at deeper depths because of the thinner line.
The lower drag of the thinner diameter line also allows me to work lighter weights when pitching or casting a worm in or near cover. The worm will fall a little quicker and the line is less likely to hang in the weeds which would impede the natural fall of the bait.
Many anglers fear loosing fish with the lighter line, but unless you are flippin' or working wood/docks, 14 pound test is more than enough for casting weedlines or most underwater structure. In fact, 10 pound is great line for working the depths if there is only scattered cover.
Check the diameter of the line on the box or spool to be sure your have the smallest diameter for that line test. Different brands and even different labels within brands often have different diameters for the same pound test.
Another factor to consider is the line limpness. I prefer a limp line over a stiff one. This is a reflection of the elastic modulus of the material. The reason I prefer the limper line is lure action. The limper the line, the less force the lure has to use to produce a fish striking action.
Here's The rule of thumb for line sizes:
1- Casting weed lines with worm- 14 pound test, preferably a brand that has thin diameter.
2- Casting weed lines with spinnerbait- You can go up to 17 pounds if the water isn't to clear, otherwise use 14 pound test.
3- Casting weed lines with topwater buzzbait- Use 17 pound test or heavier since the line isn't really visible and you need minimum line stretch when setting the hook.
4- Casting weed lines with topwater plug- 14 pound test, imparts better lure action i.e. less drag.
5- Casting light diving crankbaits in open water minimal structure- 10 pound test on spinning gear.
6- Casting heavier diving crankbaits in open water with substantial cover- Upsize to 14 pound test and use bait cast outfit.
7- Heavy mats- Got to resort to heavy lines 20 pound + to get the fish out and reduce line stretch.
8- Pitching worms in weeds- 14 to 17 pound test depending on thickness of cover and water clarity.
9- Carolina rig- 14 pound test or even 12 pound test if the water is very clear. Don't go too light unless you have ultra sharp hooks due to the line stretch.
If you follow these guidelines I'm sure and you'll be doing more catching with less fishing!
Read more >>
Why is line size so important to getting strikes? The most important reason is line visibility. The smaller the diameter of the line, the less likely that the fish will see it. In clear water lakes, smaller diameter lines are a must to coax the leery largemouth.
Another factor for downsizing your line is lure action. Thinner diameter lines produces less drag in the water and allows your lure to give a more lifelike action. Crankbaits are especially apt to loose action with the heavier lines. I often fish crankbaits with 10 pound test on a spinning rod. This enables me to downsize my line, cast lighter crankbaits further and run at deeper depths because of the thinner line.
The lower drag of the thinner diameter line also allows me to work lighter weights when pitching or casting a worm in or near cover. The worm will fall a little quicker and the line is less likely to hang in the weeds which would impede the natural fall of the bait.
Many anglers fear loosing fish with the lighter line, but unless you are flippin' or working wood/docks, 14 pound test is more than enough for casting weedlines or most underwater structure. In fact, 10 pound is great line for working the depths if there is only scattered cover.
Check the diameter of the line on the box or spool to be sure your have the smallest diameter for that line test. Different brands and even different labels within brands often have different diameters for the same pound test.
Another factor to consider is the line limpness. I prefer a limp line over a stiff one. This is a reflection of the elastic modulus of the material. The reason I prefer the limper line is lure action. The limper the line, the less force the lure has to use to produce a fish striking action.
Here's The rule of thumb for line sizes:
1- Casting weed lines with worm- 14 pound test, preferably a brand that has thin diameter.
2- Casting weed lines with spinnerbait- You can go up to 17 pounds if the water isn't to clear, otherwise use 14 pound test.
3- Casting weed lines with topwater buzzbait- Use 17 pound test or heavier since the line isn't really visible and you need minimum line stretch when setting the hook.
4- Casting weed lines with topwater plug- 14 pound test, imparts better lure action i.e. less drag.
5- Casting light diving crankbaits in open water minimal structure- 10 pound test on spinning gear.
6- Casting heavier diving crankbaits in open water with substantial cover- Upsize to 14 pound test and use bait cast outfit.
7- Heavy mats- Got to resort to heavy lines 20 pound + to get the fish out and reduce line stretch.
8- Pitching worms in weeds- 14 to 17 pound test depending on thickness of cover and water clarity.
9- Carolina rig- 14 pound test or even 12 pound test if the water is very clear. Don't go too light unless you have ultra sharp hooks due to the line stretch.
If you follow these guidelines I'm sure and you'll be doing more catching with less fishing!
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Spinnerbait storage
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
For a long time I tried to find an acceptable storage box for my spinnerbaits, one that will fit in my noraml tackle box/bag. Other than that huge box where they hang upright (which fits in NO normal sized tackle box I have ever seen), the only choice I have had is to either cut apart the dividers between compartments in the tray, or get cheap boxes that have a large enough compartment to hold them, which is only 2 compartments. So then I had to pile them on top of each other. You can imagine the tangled mess I pulled out. Well on a trek out to BassPro shops one day I came across the PERFECT solution. It is a flat box made by Falcon that has a special divider with 15 slots that hold the spinnerbaits by their own tension. This box is slightly smaller than the regular plastic containers, but is the same depth. So it fits right in the front pocket of my tackle bag. It is about 2-3 times more expensive than a normal plastic lure container, but well worth it.
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Catching catfish
Category:
Fishing Tips
At
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
If you want to catch a nice catfish then do as this says. use hotdogs just cut a chunk with your fishing line and just shove the hook through the hotdog twist the hook and re-shove the hook into the hotdog. just lightly cast your pole and let it sit on the bottom. if you dont get a bite in 10 minuetes just cast it out again.
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